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.Kamehameha accepted on condition that itwas not from the same animal.On the slopes of the volcanoes that make up the Big Island, the cattle multiplied prodigiously.4 Within 20 years theyhad become a pest, trampling crops, destroying taro patches, and, on occasion, attacking the people themselves.Atthat point, the Hawaiian monarchy, in want of cash to buy the various European goods that they enjoyed, thought ofthe cattle.New England whalers were beginning to winter in the Islands and they would pay for meat.Cowboys were hired from California, cowboys of the then-typical California mix of American Indian, Mexican, andSpanish heritage, whom the Hawaiians called paniolos (from Espagnols).5 The paniolos broke the horses that bythis time were also running wild over the mountains, and they tanned leather, constructed saddles, and wove lariats.That done, they began hunting the wild cattle on horseback.They roped and tamed steers to drag wagons of beeffrom the interior to the coastlines where the merchant ships and whalers were waiting.Thus began the long history of ranching in the Hawaiian Islands.Not only did the Hawaiians take to life on theranch, they also took to beef.So, too, did the successive immigrant groups who came to work on the plantations.When they first arrived, the Chinese and Japanese subsisted largely on the vegetable dishes and rice familiar fromtheir homelands.In Canton, the Chinese had Page 167Hoisting a cow aboard ship (HSA)eaten little or no beef and in the southern prefectures of Japan, the farmers and fishermen had depended on fish andbeans for most of their protein.Besides, Buddhism frowned on the eating of meat.Many plantations had ranchesattached, and beef must have made its way into the plantation stores.By the beginning of the twentieth century, beefstew was a regular part of the diet for plantation workers.By the time the Chinese and Japanese left the plantations,however, they each had their favored beef dishes.In Hawaii, fund-raising cookbooks put out by Buddhist templesare full of meat recipes.Pipikaula 6(Dried Beef)Dried beef has been popular in Hawaii for a century and a half.It can be bought in many markets or seen hanging instrips above the stove in Hawaiian restaurants.Its most popular form is as pipikaula, a term apparently derived from"pipi"the Hawaiian pronunciation of beefBRINGING HOME THE BEEFIt was one thing to raise beef on the Big Island.It was another to get it tomarket.After whaling declined, so did the demand for salt beef.The marketfor fresh beef was in Honolulu, a couple of hundred miles away. The cattle were herded down to Kawaihae harbor.The steamer Humuulaanchored offshore.Powerful carthorses herded the panicky cattle into thesurf.Paniolos lashed the thrashing beasts by their heads to waitingwhaleboats, six to a side.Their body buoyancy kept them afloat while amotorboat towed the whole lot out to the waiting steamer.There, slings werepassed under the bellies of the cattle to hoist them on to the deck.They wereroped to the rail by their horns while the steamer tossed through the night onthe choppy seas between the Big Island and Honolulu.That was how it was done until 1937, when a wharf was built at Kawaihae.7 Page 168and "kaula" for rope, though whether this referred to the rope from which the meat was hung to dry or its resultanttexture is not clear.8 The Hawaiians had been drying fish for centuries so it might well have occurred to them to drybeef.Or perhaps the Hispanic cowboys brought the method with them from California, because Mexicans have theirown dried beef, cecina.Pipikaula is often served as bacon might be served, broiled or fried until brown, with poi orrice on the side.1½ pounds beef tenderloin2 tablespoons salt, preferably sea salt½ cup soy sauce½ teaspoon sugar1 tablespoon lemon juicePound the meat and cut into pieces 4 inches long, 2 inches wide, and ¾ inch thick.Sprinkle with salt, soy sauce,sugar, and lemon juice.Dry in the sun for several days, taking care to screen the meat from dust and flies (a screenedbox was traditionally used for beef and fish).Yield: ¾ pound dried beefNote: Many Hawaiians like a fattier meat for pipikaula.Beef JerkyJerky, also popular in Hawaii, is thinner than pipikaula.The thin-cut beef sold in grocery stores for teriyaki workswell.Or buy any piece of lean beef, half freeze it to make cutting easier, and then with a very sharp knife cut thethinnest slices you can with the grain.If you cut against the grain, the finished product will simply crumble.Poundthe slices with the end of a bottle or other blunt instrument, but do not use an indented meat pounder because itbreaks up the fibers.Jerky makes a good snack with drinks or to take on a hike or picnic.Although homemade jerkyis not cheap (a pound of fresh beef will yield only half a pound of jerky), it is vastly superior to store-bought jerky [ Pobierz caÅ‚ość w formacie PDF ]
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.Kamehameha accepted on condition that itwas not from the same animal.On the slopes of the volcanoes that make up the Big Island, the cattle multiplied prodigiously.4 Within 20 years theyhad become a pest, trampling crops, destroying taro patches, and, on occasion, attacking the people themselves.Atthat point, the Hawaiian monarchy, in want of cash to buy the various European goods that they enjoyed, thought ofthe cattle.New England whalers were beginning to winter in the Islands and they would pay for meat.Cowboys were hired from California, cowboys of the then-typical California mix of American Indian, Mexican, andSpanish heritage, whom the Hawaiians called paniolos (from Espagnols).5 The paniolos broke the horses that bythis time were also running wild over the mountains, and they tanned leather, constructed saddles, and wove lariats.That done, they began hunting the wild cattle on horseback.They roped and tamed steers to drag wagons of beeffrom the interior to the coastlines where the merchant ships and whalers were waiting.Thus began the long history of ranching in the Hawaiian Islands.Not only did the Hawaiians take to life on theranch, they also took to beef.So, too, did the successive immigrant groups who came to work on the plantations.When they first arrived, the Chinese and Japanese subsisted largely on the vegetable dishes and rice familiar fromtheir homelands.In Canton, the Chinese had Page 167Hoisting a cow aboard ship (HSA)eaten little or no beef and in the southern prefectures of Japan, the farmers and fishermen had depended on fish andbeans for most of their protein.Besides, Buddhism frowned on the eating of meat.Many plantations had ranchesattached, and beef must have made its way into the plantation stores.By the beginning of the twentieth century, beefstew was a regular part of the diet for plantation workers.By the time the Chinese and Japanese left the plantations,however, they each had their favored beef dishes.In Hawaii, fund-raising cookbooks put out by Buddhist templesare full of meat recipes.Pipikaula 6(Dried Beef)Dried beef has been popular in Hawaii for a century and a half.It can be bought in many markets or seen hanging instrips above the stove in Hawaiian restaurants.Its most popular form is as pipikaula, a term apparently derived from"pipi"the Hawaiian pronunciation of beefBRINGING HOME THE BEEFIt was one thing to raise beef on the Big Island.It was another to get it tomarket.After whaling declined, so did the demand for salt beef.The marketfor fresh beef was in Honolulu, a couple of hundred miles away. The cattle were herded down to Kawaihae harbor.The steamer Humuulaanchored offshore.Powerful carthorses herded the panicky cattle into thesurf.Paniolos lashed the thrashing beasts by their heads to waitingwhaleboats, six to a side.Their body buoyancy kept them afloat while amotorboat towed the whole lot out to the waiting steamer.There, slings werepassed under the bellies of the cattle to hoist them on to the deck.They wereroped to the rail by their horns while the steamer tossed through the night onthe choppy seas between the Big Island and Honolulu.That was how it was done until 1937, when a wharf was built at Kawaihae.7 Page 168and "kaula" for rope, though whether this referred to the rope from which the meat was hung to dry or its resultanttexture is not clear.8 The Hawaiians had been drying fish for centuries so it might well have occurred to them to drybeef.Or perhaps the Hispanic cowboys brought the method with them from California, because Mexicans have theirown dried beef, cecina.Pipikaula is often served as bacon might be served, broiled or fried until brown, with poi orrice on the side.1½ pounds beef tenderloin2 tablespoons salt, preferably sea salt½ cup soy sauce½ teaspoon sugar1 tablespoon lemon juicePound the meat and cut into pieces 4 inches long, 2 inches wide, and ¾ inch thick.Sprinkle with salt, soy sauce,sugar, and lemon juice.Dry in the sun for several days, taking care to screen the meat from dust and flies (a screenedbox was traditionally used for beef and fish).Yield: ¾ pound dried beefNote: Many Hawaiians like a fattier meat for pipikaula.Beef JerkyJerky, also popular in Hawaii, is thinner than pipikaula.The thin-cut beef sold in grocery stores for teriyaki workswell.Or buy any piece of lean beef, half freeze it to make cutting easier, and then with a very sharp knife cut thethinnest slices you can with the grain.If you cut against the grain, the finished product will simply crumble.Poundthe slices with the end of a bottle or other blunt instrument, but do not use an indented meat pounder because itbreaks up the fibers.Jerky makes a good snack with drinks or to take on a hike or picnic.Although homemade jerkyis not cheap (a pound of fresh beef will yield only half a pound of jerky), it is vastly superior to store-bought jerky [ Pobierz caÅ‚ość w formacie PDF ]